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“A ménage a trois of Georgian, Russian and Californian Cuisine.”
Next time you are in San Diego craving Russian or Georgian food, try Kafe Sobaka, Restoran Pomegranate. Now why would the husband and wife owners, Marco and Gwynne, choose the name Sobaka which means dog? The answer: Jewish Georgian, Marco,was obsessed with the dog that was launched into outer space on Sputnik. He identifies himself as “an old wandering dog.” You can ask Marco about that yourself.
Unlike many of the Russian restaurants that seem snobbish and overpriced, this one has a quirky humor that satirizes Soviet culture. The food, however, is serious and very reasonable! With such authentic food and portions fit for an entire communal apartment, I was afraid a babushka would fly out of the kitchen and yell at me because I couldn’t empty my plate.
Our family should be in the business of reviewing restaurants since we have one pescatarian (me), one lactose intolerant husband and one gluten-free daughter. My son, the omnivore, was not with us. Both my husband and daughter are gourmet cooks and highly discerning eaters. I’m just happy whenever someone is feeding me. Gwynne was savvy and prepared for our peculiarities with gluten-free and vegetarian alternatives.
Let’s begin with zakuski, appetizers. We tried the cabbage. The pronouncement from the critics “The texture is great and the flavors are perfect.” Next I had vareniki, which was enough for an entrée. As these little cheesy potato pasta pillows slipped into my mouth, tears welled in my eyes. Just ask Proust -- food is memory and mine was back at Vera’s house eating some of the best comfort food of my life. The critics were unable to taste this food since it was dairy and glutinous.
My daughter ordered the Kharcho, Georgian beet soup and said it was “comforting.” She looked very happy and hummed a bit.
On to entrées. Harry ordered Tabaka, Cornish hen with “crisp skin.” Maya and Harry were both impressed with the sauce and appreciated the sumac in it. Once again Maya and Harry were pleased with the texture and agreed that the flavor “pops.” I had Galupsi, stuffed peppers with kasha, wild mushrooms and vegetarian kielbasa. It was delicious.
The mint apple tea with pomegranate syrup was also wonderful.
The attentive service, beautiful plating, hearty portions, reasonable prices and good company would make this a frequent retreat for us if only we lived nearby. I didn’t mention the excellent taste in jazz recordings that Gwynne and Marco have. Maybe it’s time to consider moving!
Go, enjoy! Be sure to look at their website. It's hilarious! For questions, you can contact their Minister of Information: Loresha Shlimazel. Apparently Loresha has a staff since Giafira Schmendrik replied to my post. Not easy for a schmendrik to work for a shlimazel. But neither is in the kitchen.
www.pomegranatesobaka.com 2649 Broadway, San Diego 92102 Restaurant: 619-297-4007, Catering: 619-702-2007
